Guide to Lanzarote

Beaches

If you're under the impression that Lanzarote's beaches are all about coarse black sand, think again. The coastline is in fact gilded with soft, pale sand. Take Playa Blanca, for example. The name says it all. Translated it means White Beach, for obvious reasons.

It's a similar story down in Puerto del Carmen. Here, a ribbon of fine golden sand stretches virtually unbroken for about 6 kilometres along the coast, making this Lanzarote's biggest beach resort. In the summer months it's packed with sun-seekers and you'll find sunbeds, parasols and pedaloes for hire here.

When it comes to watersports, Costa Teguise's beach, Playa de las Cucharas, wins hands down. This sun-drenched slice is a real hit with the scuba diving and windsurfing fraternities while Famara beach, up on the north-west coast of the island, is a surf dude's dream.

But we've saved the best 'til last. In the seclusion stakes, the hideaway bays of the Papagayo Peninsula give the Greek Islands a run for their money. No wonder so many people make the trek to seek them out. Just don't be surprised to see folks making the most of the privacy in pursuit of an all-over tan!

Eating out

• So what do you fancy? Some chorizo and a glass of vino at a tapas bar? The catch of the day down at a waterside restaurant? Or maybe you can't resist the call of those famous golden arches? Whatever tickles your tastebuds, Lanzarote won't let you down. Puerto del Carmen harbour is the place to head for tapas. In true Spanish style, lean against an old oak barrel and tuck into dinky plates of whitebait, Manchego cheese and Serrano ham. You'll also find some great fish restaurants in this part of town. Playa Blanca, too, is known for its fine seafood establishments. Simply pull up a chair along the seafront and prepare for a fish supper of straight-from-the-net sea bass. If, however, you're hankering after a taste of home, you'll find plenty of cafes and restaurants run by British ex-pats where you can get a decent fry up and a Sunday roast. Plus, most resorts have something in the way of a Chinese and an Italian -there's even an Indian down in Puerto del Carmen if you want a late-night tikka masala. When it comes to 'must try' local dishes though, give 'sama frita' a whirl. It's a white fish that's shallow fried and usually comes with 'papas arrugadas' – wrinkly new potatoes that are heavily salted and drizzled in a 'mojo' sauce made from either paprika or coriander. As to tipples, Lanzarote turns out some great home-grown wines – which is surprising when you consider the inhospitable land they've got to work with. However, Lanzarote's farmers are ingenious folk. The hillsides around La Geria are peppered with strange-looking crescent-shaped pits called 'zocos'. They're filled with fertile volcanic ash which collect water and allow grape vines to flourish. The town of Mozaga, in particular, is known for its rich, sweet wine. Head down to one of the bodegas there and spend a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon wine tasting.
  
  
• Freiduria, Puerto del Carmen From Spanish omelette to lightly fried calamari, you'll find this great little tapas bar hidden in the old town.
  
  
• Casa Roja, Puerto del Carmen Another old town favourite, this restaurant serves up traditional Canarian fish and meat dishes and a waterfront setting to boot.
  
  
• Mucky Duck, Puerto del Carmen English breakfasts. Jacket potatoes. And Sunday roasts. If you're after some home-style grub, this is the place to head.
  
  
• Brisa Marina, Playa Blanca Pick your dinner from one of the tanks of lobsters, crabs, prawns and other treasures of the deep at this well established seafood restaurant.
  
  
• Meson Jordan, Costa Teguise This place offers up food fit for a king. Literally. This where the Spanish royal family come when they're in town. Well, if it's good enough for them…

Nightlife

• Up for a night on the tiles? Then there's only one place to go - Puerto del Carmen. Without a doubt this is the liveliest of all the holidaymaker hangouts.
  
  Make a beeline for the seafront prom and you'll come face to face with a neon-lit strip of karaoke joints, disco bars and nightclubs churning out bouncing basslines and glitterball classics. The Centro Atlantico is a particularly popular late-night hangout with lots of bars on different levels.
  
  If you want to play out with the locals though, give the capital, Arrecife, a try. The area around Calle Jose Antonio is always a good starting point, especially at weekends. It's worth remembering though, the Spanish like to kick off their evenings quite late, with most clubs and 'discotecas' opening their doors at about 11pm and closing up at 5 or 6 in the morning.
  
  If that doesn't sound like your cup of tea, don't worry. Lanzarote offers up plenty in the way of sophisticated nights out as well. Order an ice-cold glass of San Miguel and nibble on big juicy olives in the tapas bars of Puerto del Carmen harbour.
  
  Or maybe while away an evening beneath the stars with a glass of champers in the sexy marina that is Puerto Calero. One thing's fore sure, whether you want to dance the night away into the wee small hours or just gaze out to sea at sunset, evenings in Lanzarote can be as full on or as low key as you want.
  
  
  
  
• Waikiki Beach Club, Puerto del Carmen Running for 20 or so years now, this place has live music and DJs playing well into the night. Oh, and the strawberry daiquiris here are to die for.
  
  
• Legends Disco, Puerto del Carmen Pull on your dancing shoes and shake your booty down at this popular karaoke and dance club.
  
  
• Paradise Beach Club, Puerto del Carmen Can't resist the call of the glitter ball? Then get into the groove down at this pumping disco bar.
  
  
• American Harley Rock Diner, Puerto del Carmen Like a scene from Happy Days, this hangout includes a Harley Davison motorbike, an original 1950's Cadillac and posters of Elvis. DJs spin discs from the Fifties right up to the present day.
  
  
• Divino Doblon, Arrecife One of the capital's hottest clubs, 2am sees the dance floor packed out with hip Spanish twenty-somethings.

Shopping

Every Sunday, sleepy little Teguise undergoes a metamorphosis. Like something from Stars In Your Eyes, this normally sedate town is transformed into a buzzing marketplace as hundreds of people flock from across the island to snap up bargains at this, Lanzarote's biggest street market.

Stalls groan under the weight of handmade pottery. Trestle tables are piled high with lace and embroidery. And crates overflow with bananas and pineapples. Add the haggling and hollering of stall holders and it all makes for a rather colourful scene.

The goods and trinkets spill out onto the floor, as well, with North African traders laying out tribal masks, bongo drums and wooden sculptures to catch the eye of anyone passing by. Get down on your hands and knees and rummage out a bargain or two.

Down in the town square, meanwhile, there's often a folk band playing and local dancers, dressed in traditional Canarian costume, put their best foot forward. Grab yourself a chocolate-drizzled waffle from one of the food carts and find a spot to watch the spectacle unfold. Markets aside,

Lanzarote has its fair share of shopping malls, too. There's a big one in Playa Honda, where you'll find everything from clothes to perfume, and Puerto del Carmen is home to a swanky shopping centre called the Biosfera that stretches over several floors.

Of course, the Canaries are duty free islands and so electrical goods, spirits and tobacco are all great value for money. Just remember not to go over your allowances.