Guide to Sardinia

Beaches

Pictures of Sardinia's beaches just doesn't do them justice. Cushiony soft and shimmery-white, they're the kind of places you want to lie down and not go anywhere for a long time. And then there's the sea - piercing turquoise and deep jade waters, so clear you can see the seabed. Vying for the top spot is the Costa Smeralda. Sweeping across Sardinia's northern coastline, there are around 80 bays shared among the cosmopolitan towns. Put your feet up in pin-drop peace and quiet Porto Rafael with its bewitching little bay. Or check out the horseshoe-shaped Isola Rossa with bright blue waters as shallow as a baby's bath. The coastline around capital Cagliari kicks up quite a storm in the sand stakes, too. An impressive necklace of beaches lines these southerly shores. Grace the Bounty-like Santa Margherita di Pula, backed by whispering pine woods and rugged mountains. Or stretch out on Poetto, which seems to go on forever. Whichever slice you unwind on, make sure you dip into the glass-like waters. Snorkelling here opens a portal into a world like no other with flashing shoals of fish, waving anemones and striking red coral.

Eating out

• You probably won't have time to eat your way through the entire A to Z list of island specialities, but try and savour as many as you can while you're here. Although similar to its mainland counterpart in terms of fresh, simply prepared ingredients - and of course, handmade pasta - the isle does have its own distinctive dishes. You'd think, being an island, seafood would take poll position on the most famous dish list, but it's actually 'porceddu' - melt-in-the-mouth suckling pig roasted with myrtle leaves. Other meat medleys include 'agnello da latte' - roast lamb basted with olive oil and lemon - and 'maiale marinato' - pork marinated in red wine, garlic and herbs. If that all sounds a bit on the heavy side, indulge in some fresh-from-the-net fish. Popular dishes include 'burrida' - fish cooked in garlic, parsley and hazelnuts - and 'buccinis' - clams served simply with wedges of lemon. And if you're staying in Alghero, don't miss their Catalan lobster served with special vinaigrette. And last, but by no means least, you'll find plenty of all-Italian pasta with a Sardinian twist on the menus. Tuck into heavenly 'fregula' - granular pasta, similar to couscous, served with fresh clams. Try 'malloreddus' -little gnocchi dumplings served with melted pecorino cheese, sausage and flavoured with saffron. And you can't leave without ordering 'culungiones' - large ravioli stuffed with potato puree, cheese, onion and mint and then drizzled with fresh tomato sauce.
  
  
• Dal Corsara, Cagliari Arguably one of Sardinia's best eateries, dine on exquisite island cuisine at this refined restaurant near the Via Roma.
  
  
• Al Tuguri, Alghero Housed in a 15th-century building, seasonal delights are the name of the game here, with anything from sea urchins to onion soup on the menu.
  
  
• Gianni Pedrinelli, Porto Cervo The unbeatable al fresco dining and fresh seafood dishes here have won the affections of foodies from around the globe.
  
  
• Il Porticciolo, Palau A family-run trattoria with simple-yet-out-of-this-world-cooking and a menu that's refreshed daily.
  
  
• Gallura, Olbia Whether you go for fish or meat, risotto or pasta here, it's whipped up with a whole lot of creativity.

Nightlife

Evenings here revolve more around time-honoured pleasures. So if you're looking to skip the whole neon nightclub noise, you've found your perfect match in Sardinia. After dark, the pace tends to crank down rather than up, with evenings revolving around fine dining and good company. Hardly surprising given the Sardinians love of food and wine. If you're staying in one of the main towns, you'll find a more cosmopolitan scene. Head for their harbours or main squares and stretch out the night in an atmospheric bar. Porto Cervo on the Costa Smeralda is one of the few exceptions where you'll find a couple of nightclubs. They're packed with more the champers-swilling set though than the bootie-shaking kind. Another buzzier option is Cagliari with a collection of bars where you can mingle with a laid-back crowds.

Shopping

Sardinia is somewhere you can spend an indecent amount of time blowing your budget. If you're heading south, capital city Cagliari will more than occupy your credit card. We're not talking a shopping frenzy on a Milan scale, but you can easily spend a day or two popping in and out of the super-smart shops along the Via Roma. Sitting parallel to the quay, this 19th-century row of arcades has all the stylish Italian names you could wish for. Join the throngs of crowds and build up a collection of bags as you shop, stopping off at the pavement cafes along the way. If your tastes are a little more eclectic, wander off down the narrow streets behind and you'll find antique curios and tiny handicraft stores. Up in the north of the island, it's the Costa Smeralda's look-but-don't-touch boutiques that have the shoppers' full attention. From posh togs to designer bags – it's a temple of jet-set retail worship. Of course, if you don't have a millionaire's budget, you can simply sit with a frothy coffee and watch the chic shop. If none of that sounds up your street though, you'll find Sardinian souvenirs pretty much all over the island. Almost every town has a weekly or daily food market, which are well worth a visit with cheese and pastry goodies always on offer. Other good buys include pottery, woodwork and filigree jewellery. The small town of Bosa's renowned for its goldsmiths' workshops, while Alghero's old town is the place to hunt out bespoke pieces of polished red coral jewellery.