Guide to Thassos

Beaches

When it comes to beaches, Thassos is your oyster. A circular road runs right round the coast, giving relatively easy access to just about every bay, cove and inlet. If you're prepared to hire a car and do a bit of exploring, you might even be lucky enough to find somewhere all to yourself, if you don't mind a little legwork that is. Wherever you choose to lay your towel, it's likely the swimming will be good and generally safe. Most beaches, particularly the larger ones, shelve gently into the sea and the waters are calm, so the kids can splash about to their hearts' content. Probably the best stretch of sand on the island is the aptly named Paradise Beach, near Kinyra on the east coast. It's straight out of the Caribbean, with a glorious sweep of powder-white sands lapped by azure-blue waters. Other gems are the vast beach at Limenaria and the twin beaches at Aliki, which are framed by pine-clad hills and overlooked by a quaint, whitewashed village. And don't forget the family-orientated Chrysi Ammoudhia, or 'Golden Beach', tucked between the villages of Skala Panagias and Skala Potamias, with Mount Ipsarion as an impressive backdrop.

Eating out

• While there are some international restaurants and fast food outlets, the dining scene on Thassos is biased towards traditional Greek. The many tavernas serve up all the usual favourites, including taramosalata, tzatziki, dolmades, moussaka, souvlaki and keftedes, as well as dishes which are less familiar, such as 'fasolada', a thick bean soup, and 'kakavia', a fish soup with garlic and olive oil. Or why not try a 'mezedes', the Greek answer to tapas, that gives you a feast of mouth-watering starters to kick off your meal? The waters around the island yield some quality fresh fish and seafood, and for a light meal a Greek salad goes down well, piled high with Feta cheese and juicy black olives, then drizzled with oil and vinegar. For dessert there's everything from calorie-laden pastries to a refreshing bowl of Greek yoghurt and honey, not to mention succulent fresh fruit, including gigantic watermelons, peaches and oranges. When it comes to drink, there are some local wines, but the island is more famous for its 'tsipouro', a strong distilled spirit often flavoured with cinnamon or anise. Alternatively try an aniseed-flavoured ouzo, the Greek answer to Pernod or Absinthe – you'll see the locals lingering over a glass and a game of backgammon in the local tavernas. Finally, a note of warning. Greek coffee is a small shot of super-strong java, intended to be heavily sweetened.
  
  
• Asteria, Limenas Just a short walk from the seafront, this friendly, traditional taverna has been around since the '60s. Grilled meat is the speciality, including spit-roasted goat.
  
  
• Da Remo, Limenas If you fancy a change from taramosalata, moussaka and all the other Greek favourites, Da Remo will oblige. It's a typical Italian establishment, serving good pizza, pasta and steaks.
  
  
• Pefka, Golden Beach Beautifully located right next to the sands of Golden Beach, this friendly, family-run restaurant offers traditional Greek fare and a relaxed atmosphere.
  
  
• Irene, Potos A charming, flower-decked beachside taverna that offers a warm welcome and a traditional menu of good value Greek fare and local wine.
  
  
• Megas Alexandros, Vigles Set right on the beach in Skala Potamias, this well established small taverna is rather grandly named after Alexander the Great. The atmosphere, however, is unpretentious and the traditional Greek food good value.

Nightlife

• Thassos carefully protects its trademark laid-back ambience, so doesn't have the sizzling nightlife of Corfu or Rhodes. However, there are plenty of bars where you can down a few drinks in a lively atmosphere, and quite a few have music playing into the early hours. Many of the hotels also put on special events, including poolside barbecues, beach parties and entertainment, including live music, dancing and folklore shows. In Limenas and the other major towns, the seaside is the place to find most of the action, with the beach often serving as a dance floor. In Limenaria, the island's second largest town, the whole waterfront seems to light up after dark into one long bar, with a seemingly endless string of watering holes, all playing different kinds of music from traditional Greek to heavy metal. If you want to immerse yourself in authentic Greek culture, head for one of the music tavernas or bouzouki bars that are all around Limenas and the other bigger towns. The tunes may not be in your hit parade, but it's a fun night out with the bonhomie flowing as freely as the drinks. You might even be encouraged to leave your inhibitions at the door and have a go at some communal dancing a la Zorba the Greek. Alternatively, if you're into the blues, why not check out the Greek version, 'rembetika'? There are several joints where you can catch skilled practitioners of this raw, urban protest music, which originated in the hashish dens of Piraeus and Thessaloniki at the beginning of the 20th century.
  
  
• Island Cafe, Limenas A great place for after-dinner cocktails and music, this lively beachside bar is at the eastern end of town just past the old harbour. Kick off your shoes and feel the sand between your toes as you dance to the latest sounds.
  
  
• XXL Club, Limenas This popular venue has a real party atmosphere and is about as close as Thassos gets to the kind of pulsating nightlife you'll find on other Greek islands.
  
  
• Rock Cave Bar, Limenaria Like your rock as heavy as Thassos's famous marble? If so, this is the place for you. It's right on the beach and the music is head-banging, but not so loud that you can't have a chat.
  
  
• Mandragoras Bar, Skala Potamias Right next to the beach, this welcoming bar serves coffee and snacks in the morning and cocktails in the afternoon and evening. There's a cool terrace with straw parasols.

Shopping

Generally speaking, supermarkets and souvenir stores rule the roost in the beach resorts. But if you do fancy a spot of retail therapy, make a beeline for the capital, Limenas. Along the pedestrianised main drag you'll find plenty of shops where you can part with your euros. However, if you're after an authentic Greek retail experience, head for the west coast town of Prinos on a Monday morning. It's market day and you can join the melee of bargain hunters picking over stalls piled high with fresh fruit and vegetables, clothes, shoes, household items and more. When it comes to souvenirs, the usual ceramics, leather goods, linen and jewellery are the favourites, but if you search around you may find some more unusual items, for example marble carvings. Alternatively, ever a good buy is Greek honey, and you'll find plenty of locally-made liquid gold in the supermarkets and souvenir shops.