Guide to Samos

Beaches

Samos has dozens of beaches, ranging from large stretches of sand to small, pebbly coves. In Samos Town there's an okay stretch of pebbles, but it's probably better to head south on the bus to the ones at Kerveli, Possidonion or Psili Ammos, the last being the best and sandiest, with some friendly beachside tavernas. A bit further round the coast is Pythagorion, the biggest resort on Samos. The main beach here stretches for several miles west of the Logothetis castle. Ireon has a pleasant pebble and sand beach. And the pebbly beach at Kokkari on the north coast is popular with windsurfers. If you fancy a day out by the seaside, the best beaches for swimming, particularly for the kids, are on the island's south west coast, where the silvery sands shelve gently into the balmy, glassy sea. Confusingly there's another Psili Ammos beach here, which is actually a bit better than the one in the east, although you should be aware that part of it is reserved for naturists. The north coast is generally pretty wild and unspoilt, so if you're prepared to make a bit of an effort, you'll find a secluded cove for some peaceful sunbathing and swimming.

Eating out

• In the larger towns, tourist tavernas sit alongside international restaurants, pizzerias and fast food joints, while in the villages things are more traditional. Wherever you go you'll find all the popular favourites – moussaka, souvlaki, keftedes etc, not to mention the world-famous extravaganza of starters known as a 'mezes'. But if you're in a traditional taverna, it's worth asking what's not on the menu, often the local specialities. They'll usually be happy to oblige with dishes that are less known to us Brits and you may be in for a pleasant surprise. As with everywhere in the Aegean, you can't go wrong with the catch of the day. The fresh fish and seafood are always excellent, although in some cases it's worth checking the price before you order, as some things likes lobster are sold by weight. For lunch the staple dish is a Greek salad, complete with hefty lumps of Feta cheese. As for those with a penchant for the sweeter things in life, patisseries beckon with treats such as baklava, kataife and loukoumadhes, usually dripping with honey and packed with calories. When it comes to drink, a glass or two of Samos wine is favourite to accompany your meal. The island has a solid background in all things vinous, stretching back to over 1000 years BC in fact. For an aperitif there's the ubiquitous ouzo, and some of the multi-starred Greek brandies make a good post-prandial tipple.
  
  
• Ta Kotopoula, Samos Town You'll have to search a bit to find this little vine-clad taverna in the north of the town, but it's worth the effort. It's the usual Greek fare, but fresh and tasty nonetheless. The locals love it.
  
  
• Christos Taverna, Samos Town This simple, centrally located taverna offers good, honest Greek fare at reasonable prices. Try their speciality, 'revidokeftedes' - cheese fried in chickpea batter.
  
  
• Varka, Pythagorion Set in the perfect seafront location, this lively restaurant and bar is popular with locals, which is the best recommendation. The menu is typically Greek with seafood specialities.
  
  
• Meravilia, Kokkari A typical seafront Greek taverna catering mainly for the tourist market, but offering good quality and value. There's everything on the menu from kalamari to pizza, including the famous Meravilia Mixed Grill.
  
  
• Cohyli, Ireon A friendly, family run restaurant, linked to a small hotel, with tables romantically set in a garden overlooking the sea. The family catch their own fish and there are twice weekly 'mezedes' nights.

Nightlife

• It's a million miles from the glitzy razzamatazz of Las Vegas, but Samos does have some relatively lively nightlife if you're prepared to seek it out. The many waterfront bars in Samos Town offer a vibrant atmosphere and drinking into the early hours. There are also a few happening clubs around town where you can dance. As for a more traditional experience, there are several bouzouki bars where you can explore the arcane culture of Greek popular music. And, of course, have a go at that famous Zorba's dance. The same pretty much goes for Karlovassi and Pythagorio, while Kokkari has enough buzzing bars during the summer months to keep party animals from going stir crazy. Anywhere else on the island there are plenty of places where you can sip a glass of Samos wine or an ice-cold beer and people-watch or gaze out at the twinkling harbour lights reflected in the dark sea. In terms of entertainment, you could always catch a film. Most of the latest releases from Hollywood are shown in the original English with Greek subtitles. In the summer, there's a fun open-air cinema in Pythagorion where they serve complimentary loukoumadhes pastries in the interval.
  
  
• Aeolis Hotel, Samos Town This neo-classical gem has a lovely roof garden where you can enjoy a drink or two along with fabulous views of the Aegean, the mountains and the old part of town.
  
  
• Escape, Samos Town This trendy bar is one of the most popular with Samos's younger crowd. Chill out on the terrace with a drink and a view.
  
  
• Totem Disco, Samos Town Located in the mountains just outside Samos Town, this buzzing disco club doesn't really get going until the early hours of the morning. So be prepared for a long night.
  
  
• Cine Olympia, Samos Town This relatively luxurious cinema shows a year-round programme of movies, including Hollywood blockbusters.
  
  
• Sirius Club, Pythagorion This is currently Pythagorion's 'in' place, a lively club with DJ-driven dancing.

Shopping

We're not talking the West End of London, but Samos Town, Pythagorion and Karlovassi all have pretty good range of shops, from the inevitable designer boutiques to more traditional craft stores, as well as weekly food markets. You won't be hugely surprised by the typical souvenirs on offer – ceramics, leather goods, lace and linen, jewellery – but the stuff is generally good quality and reasonably priced. Search around a bit and you'll also find interesting curios and antiques. For the most authentic handicrafts, it's worth heading for Mavrarzei or Koumandarei, where you'll find plenty of good folk art shops, selling all kinds of pottery and woven fabrics. Samos is also famous for its 'flokatis', hand-made rugs which are often included in brides' dowries and usually become treasured family heirlooms. In terms of edible souvenirs, there's the delicious Greek honey - the beekeepers of Samos produce a particularly fine version.