Guide to Pelion

Beaches

One look at Pelion's beaches and it's easy to see why the ancient gods chose to live here. Quite simply, they're sublime. Each and every one comes complete with a killer view. Even better, the Pelion runs the whole spectrum of beaches – everything from hideaway pebble coves to busy sands complete with sunbeds and watersports. At Damouhari, two small but perfectly formed inlets washed by luminous waters cry out for you, your towel and your snorkel. At nearby Fakistra beach, a steep footpath zigzags down to a golden sweep kissed by electric-blue seas. And if you fancy something different, just flip-flop further south. Just below Tsagarada, there's Milopotamus – two heaven-sent bays perfect for snoozing the day away. And further south is Potistika – another pair of sandy crescents separated by giant rocks trailing into the sea. Both get popular in high season, so you need to hurry to secure that perfect spot. It's the same on Pelion's west coast where there are plenty of beaches that'll have you reaching for the sun-cream in no time. Here though, things tend to be more developed, with more amenities. Plus, because the beaches are lapped by the sheltered waters of the Pagasitikos Gulf, they're brilliant for young kids. All around Afissos, you'll find sand and pebble beaches with sunbeds and gentle ocean-going pursuits like kayaking, pedaloes and sailing dinghies. The recipe repeats itself in Milina and Kalamos. Dreamy bays. Gin-clear waters. And timeless views over distant mountains.

Eating out

• Simple. Fresh. Packed with flavour. No exaggeration, the food in Pelion is drool-inducingly delicious. Wherever you pull up a chair here, you can guarantee you'll be greeted with some of the tastiest Greek food you've ever encountered. Get ready for sublime Greek salads that look like miniature market gardens - plump black olives and generous slabs of feta drizzled with olive oil. And of course, all those classic Greek mains. Lip-smacking moussakas. Sweet and tender 'stifados'. And plates of perfectly cooked fish - freshly caught, pan-fried and smothered in lemon juice and wild herbs. Better still, Pelion is one part of Greece that has its own regional specialities. So as well as all the unmissable Greek staples, there's plenty more to get your palate perked up. We're talking hearty country dishes that have kept people in these parts happy and well fed for centuries. Get acquainted with 'spetzofai' - a local slow-cooked sausage, tomato and pepper stew - satisfying bean soups and delights like 'tyropsomo' - the scrumptious local cheesey bread. And when it comes to drinks, a glass or two of Mythos beer or the Pelion's crisp white will do very nicely. And talking of tipples, there's one more must-try. 'Tsipouro' is a mini-religion in Pelion. This sticky brandy is made from pomace – what's left in the wine presses after wine's made – and it's brilliant with meze. To taste it at its best, head for the waterfront bars in Volos, where it's quaffed alongside treats like char-grilled octopus and giant fried prawns. There's one more thing you should know about Pelion's dining scene though. Don't expect a dizzying choice of international restaurants. All over the peninsula, Greek food rules the day, although you'll find a few pizzerias and pasta places here and there. Eating out here is all about traditional tavernas nestled in shady olive groves, harbourside 'kafenions' where the old men play backgammon outside and mountain eateries tucked away in sun-dappled glades. Who would want it any other way?
  
  
• Karagatsi, Damouhari Don't expect a menu at this fancy-free water's edge taverna. Instead, chef Apostoli will gleefully lead you into the kitchen to choose from an array of straight-from-the-sea fish. The views over the colourful next-door harbour make the perfect side order.
  
• Evoxia, Tsaragada For a contemporary twist on traditional Peliot home cooking, station yourself at this stylish eaterie on the approach road to Tsaragada. Specialities include smoked chicken with quince, spicy smoked eel and fragrant rosemary risotto. Oh, and fab wines too.
  
• O'Glaros, Afissos Melt-in-the-mouth 'moussakas'. Tender lamb 'stifados'. And trails of twinkly fairylights casting a soft glow over everything. Grab a chair at one of the rickety tables and dig in at this wonderful village square institution.
  
• Stathis Taverna, Milina Brightly chequered tablecloths, blue-painted chairs and exceptional food are the stock in trade of this delightful taverna on Milina seafront. Indulge in the delectable local fare and wines whilst gazing at a spectacular sunset over the bay.
  
• Rematia Taverna, Afetes Feast on irresistible 'pastistio' and time-honoured Peliot dishes at this lovely taverna. It may look basic from the outside, but in summer, its tables are set in its exquisite, flower-filled rear garden. Peaceful and perfect.

Nightlife

• To be honest, holidaying in Pelion means you can pretty much leave your glad rags safely at home. Party dresses and dinner suits aren't what nights here are about. Instead, expect evenings with a laid-back, unhurried vibe. Come dusk, most people start with a 'volta', a gentle stroll along the water's edge or flower-filled village lanes. From there, it's on to a friendly bar for a 'tsipouro' or glass of wine. Next stop? A candlelit taverna terrace for a slap-up supper with the chatter of fellow diners all around. And later, if the night still feels young, it's off to a cocktail bar, perhaps even with a dose of Greek dancing on the menu. In fact, late-night dance performances are a regular fixture at some of the livelier tavernas and watering holes here. And if you prefer your nights a little busier and noisier, no worries. Just grab a cab to Milina in the south of the peninsula. All along the waterfront here, you'll find lots of cosy bars playing music and packed with people. There's also a disco nearby pumping out dance tunes if you feel like hitting the floor. Or if you're further north, make a beeline for Agios Ioannis. This lively coastal village has several animated music bars along its harbour.
  
  
• En Plo Cafe Bar, Milina Romantic evenings are right on cue at En Plo. Set so close to the waterfront you can almost dip your toes in the sea, this half-bar, half-taverna stays open late and has a cave-style nook perfect for smooching, socialising and sipping drinks.
  
• Dipnosofistis Bar, Tsagarada Virtuoso cocktails. Regular live bands. Sing-a-long folk music. They're all features of this friendly open-air bar tucked beneath spreading plane and chestnut trees outside Tsagarada. The setting's so magical don't be surprised if you spot flower fairies in the neighbouring woods.
  
• Marabou, Afissos Slurp on fresh cocktails or ice-cold Mythos at this popular bar-restaurant in Afissos and chill out in a serious way. A sociable spot for pre-dinner drinks or nightcaps under the stars.
  
• Casus Club, Milina This is practically the only disco in the whole of the Pelion, so if you're in a clubbing mood, it's the place to go. Thumping out dance tracks, it entertains Milina's young partygoers from midnight to late on summer nights.
  
• Climax Beach Bar, Potistika Serving over fifteen types of cocktails from mint juleps to mojitos, the colonial-style Climax looks out over Potistika beach and attracts a trendy young crowd. Great for sunset-staring and star-gazing from the outdoor loungers.

Shopping

Okay, Pelion isn't exactly Oxford Street when it comes to shopping. Largely rural and hardly touched by mass tourism, it'll probably disappoint hardened shopaholics. On the other hand, if you're happy with some casual, 'let's see what turns up' retail roaming, the peninsula could be just your kind of place. Imagine chic little boutiques hidden down harbourside lanes. Tiny gift shops tucked away in mountain villages. Old-fashioned grocery stores selling delicious local food. And miniature museums selling artifacts like worry beads and gold-leafed religious icons. You get the picture. In places like Milina and Afissos – and of course the Pelion's mountain villages - you'll find all those quintessential Greek mementoes like leather sandals, chunkily woven shepherds' bags, lacework and colourful ceramics. But don't forget to forage for some of the foodstuffs the peninsula's famous for, too. Everywhere you go, there are shops selling delectable home-produced honeys, fruit-crammed jams, sweet chestnuts and hand-made pastas. And there's a roaring trade in dried herbs and mixed spices, handfuls of which are wrapped in tiny bags to make perfectly sized holiday take-homes. And if you feel yourself hankering after some modern-day retail therapy, there's one place that's got it sorted. Volos. The biggest town in Pelion, its main shopping streets of Ermou, Demetriados and Isasonos lie in wait behind its waterfront. Grab your wallet and dive in – there's everything from jewellery, fine antiques and designer clothes to swallow up your euros here.